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Do you all think this will be strong enough?
I have mocked it up in the shop and it certainly feels strong.
#10 screws for the cleat to wall and the cab to cleat connections.
I use 1/2" backs that are glued and screwed to the uppers and I also use a top cap, bottom cap, and end panels that will all cover the shims and space between the backs and the walls.
I would make sure to find studs on particularly large upper units but am thinking of this method for the average 15-20" box.
Thanks in advance.
I think this would be a very strong install. You could stick to #8 screws into the studs and still have more than adequate load strength. I would think 1/2" baltic birch plywood would provide plenty of screw holding for the job.
Why not go to the European hardware system to hang them? Run the steel strip and then adjustable hangers in the cabinets. No need to reinvent the system, it's been done for decades.
We do this and the top back stretcher on the cabinet sits on it then attached from inside,
done correctly is faster as the wall cleat needs to be leveled.
2 words french cleats.
It seems that system takes about 1 1/4" of space from the interior of the wall cabinet, do you make the uppers deeper then 12" ?
Yes, they are 13 3/4 deep.
Have you considered a concealed hanging system? we use the hettich r215 rail & hangers. the adjustablity is nice, and in our stress testing(trying to rip the cabinets off the wall with all our might) its definitely a strong enough system. It has 1" of up down adjustment as well as 1/2" in/out adjustment.
Having done this, I think I will order some manufactured aluminum cleat material and give that a go. Seems promising.
Really liking the sound of the hettich system, R215 and SAH 215, that Tyler recommended but I don't think my clients will go for the visible hardware. Its very cool to know about though and I will certainly look into it a bit more.