I want to start cutting random logs left behind from tree service and storms. I have alot of ideas to carve furniture from log waste. I have a commercial Stihl chainsaw. I am comfortable using this saw. What I would like to know is how can I seal the green fresh cut logs after I make outdoor furniture? I have intentions of making it a business. As I get more business I want to get a commercial kiln. What do you recommend? Thanks Wes.

Wes, There is a group/association(s) dealing directly with building with green wood/unseasoned wood(s). The general idea isto learn the knowledge to build with the understanding of what and how it WILL shrink, along with the PROPER finishes to use. You see a lot of people (notice I didn't call them craftsmen because they don't understand their trade correctly) whom use a hard finish (poly, varnish etc., etc.) on their green wood thinking they done well when they actually long term done bad as the wood under it WILL shrink, thus causing moisture (trapped water) and mold in time because the actual natural water can't escape. I would recommend a oil based/soft finish. I use Heritage Natural Finishes as they're design for timberframes which are green large chunks of wood and the finish is completely breathable, water resistant, easily repairable and reappliable when needed without much trouble/hassle. I think Odies is closely the same base makeup.
The main thing is be careful, learn all the ins and outs and enjoy your trade!!!

Bark or peeled? Next big issue is bugs boring into the green wood if you intend to air dry the logs. What do you mean by logs? 6" branches or 12" logs? If you intend to seal the logs so they don't crack, don't bother. Getting the center of a log of any length at all is just not going to work well. Always expect cracking and incredibly long periods to dry.

Appreciate that tools, adhesives, finishes and equipment for processing wood into furniture and the like were designed for dry wood. So, for example, a dust system may not work well with heavier chips. Wet wood can corrode tools.

Wetter wood has an increased risk of insect infestation.

Wetter wood is subject to mold, mildew and decay (rot) fungi.

Wetter wood is weaker, by up to 50%.

Wetter wood will shrink and twist, especially softwoods, as it dries.

The bark will often loosen.

So, be aware and address some of these issues.

I have a sawmill and deal mostly with sawn lumber and sticker it to dry.
A few years ago my step daughter was getting married and wanted 4 tier cupcake stands. I cut "cookies" from logs 1" to 3" thick on the sawmill and left them to dry a couple weeks.
Since the ends were exposed, they dried very quickly, but I had to get them a little drier to be able to sand them.
As expected they cracked even though they would still be considered very green at likely more than 50% MC.
Since they were for indoor use only, I put a shellac finish on them and they turned out well and still looked good several years later.
A note about bark staying on. It makes a difference what time of the year the logs were cut.
Late winter (or very early spring) when sap first starts to move up (much earlier than you think) the bark will not stay on well.
Even worse is during the active growing in spring and early summer.
To keep bark on, only cut the logs in very late fall or coldest of winter.

I know the willow furniture guys all harvest their Willow in the coldest part of winter to keep the bark on.

I have a different dilemma - I have a bunch of Sumac saplings I want to remove the bark from. Cut them in the middle of Summer may be one step. Then I thought of letting them dry to see if the bark wants to peel anywhere. Spokeshaving at a draw horse works, but I was hoping for a chemical spray or dip. If my plan plays out, I will have several hundred 2"-3" diameter tree trunks to strip bark from.

Spring is better for easy stripping of bark. I had some small walnut trees, about 8" in diameter given to be. One cut from top to bottom let me strip the entire section at a time. Same goes for companies selling poplar bark outdoor shingle siding. One cut parallel to the length and the entire tree peels in one piece.

The slippery bark season varies with species…some have slippery bark for a few weeks, but others for a few mo this.