I've switched to a slider and got rid of the old cabinet saw due to lack of space. Removing the crosscut fence to rip is getting old, and I'm considering upgrading the bandsaw to one primarily for ripping. My only experience is with small cheap bandsaws (inaccurate, underpowered), how would a small Minimax or Felder bandsaw compare to a table saw if it was equipped with a carbide tipped blade - what kind of difference in speed and cut quality? Also considering adding a powerfeeder to the equation as well...any thoughts?
If you want to rip lumber to a rough dimension then a band saw would be the way to go. If you want to manufacturer directly off the saw then I'd use a straight line rip. Better cut, better dimension control, able to glue directly from the saw cut.
If you want a clean parallel cut it will not work. Even the best bandsaw blades will wonder. If you want a rough cut it will work great. I have a large Laguna bandsaw for resawing my own veneers and feel that is the best use for a band saw. I do cut the edge straight on badly warped boards instead of spend too much time at the jointer before going to the table saw.
Well here's the problem:
You post has context ( Ripping), but lacks specificity.
Replace a tablesaw for what - - exactly?
For resawing rough or large stuff like logs big cants, etc into planks?
Oh yeah baby. A large ( about 20") saw with a good carbide tipped 3 TPI blade tensioned at 25 Thousand pounds.
I use an Agazzani B20 for most all my rippping save for where I want a really nice edge.
I've had oak and maple 15 feet long by the maximum my saw can handle n height - this Requires infeed and outfeed tables or the saw will not handle it. Plus it remains possible for the wood to spring closed in the blade stopping the saw in it's tracks. I use wood wedges and whack them in to the kerf, but have had big lumber give me a real fight.
But for nice clean smooth cuts - - well it's hard to compete with a good Circular blade.
As a general rule nothing found in the woodshop will give the sawing accuracy of a good TS or slider.
I've been working on a similar saw for 5 years now and I 'm testing the latest prototype. It needs a 1" carbide-tipped blade for better performance but it's very forgiving with two yellow tension springs pulling awesome tension on 14" wheels behind a 2 HP motor. I'm feeding slowly with minimum fingertip pressure to keep the 3/4" narrow kerf blade from wandering . I'll post another video with the proper blade at full speed. The wood is semi-dried apple. And fairly hard.
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