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Sharpening Circular Saw5/17
I am used to sharpen my own sharpening saw by hand, using some own make jig. The result is great, but the sharpness cannot last long. And, for wood that is harder than IronWood that is more than 1" thickness, sometimes it causes burning even i pour some oil on the wood and blade. Then i notise that the burning area (body) is under the blade tip. It seems that there is high friction between blade body and thick hard wood.
I sharpen my blade on face and top, but never on side clearance edge. Anyone can teach me on how to resharpen or reshape the side clearance to large angle?
You need to send the blade to a saw shore. There is at least one in every small city in America.
Lastly side rubbing often means your blade needs hammering and tensioning so it will run true at RPM.
Woodworkers can sharpen their own saws if they want and if nothing goes wrong but as soon as you lose a tooth or lose tension or have problems you need to get it to a professional sharpening shop
I agree with Dave, send it to a shop to be checked out and put on a machine where they can professionally sharpen it. If you need help finding one, just give us a call.
Sent it to Ct saw & Tool , in Stratford, Ct.
I use a 10" mill file to sharpen the saw. You want to keep your teeth straight. If you get any angle on them, your saw will lead in that direction. I use this method the most. With practice, you can get sharper than with a grinder.
You can invest in a grinder. They can be a little costly if you don't do a whole lot of sawing. I have a Jockey grinder ,they grind all the teeth in the same angle, so there is a more consistent sharpening. There are other ones on the market.
The best part of a good shop is you can get teeth replaced as well.
As my grandfather use to tell me when I was a little kid
Dremel US40-01 Ultra-Saw