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drilling cast iron shaper tables4/27
I'm currently on the best job of my 40 year career, with no budget or time constraints, and need to build about 60 VGDF and White Oak doors, and would like to upgrade my feeder to allow climb cutting.
My question is this:
I have no experience with this and do not want to risk cracking my shaper's table.
you shouldn't have any problems.
If the feeder is mounted on the table, no problem. If it's way out on the edge of the extension you might have a bit of flex. Plenty of ways around that though.
It's all going to depend on how the table of your shaper was constructed and how far you are going to cantilever the power head from the attach point. You could always extend a support under the table to the stand. Maybe use the hols already there for your smaller feeder to connect a support them bolted thru the side stand. Lots of ways to distribute the load over a larger area.
Why not post a photo, pictures worth a thousand words.
I'd say there is a very good chance of cracking between the holes if the casting is grey iron. If it's cast steel, not as easy to crack.
Thank you to all.
Perhaps if I can straddle a rib in the table that would help distribute the load?
Not sure which direction to go yet, but thanks again.
When you say "straddle a rib" that would make me nervous thinking you are only going to be tapping into the thin surface layer of the casting. In my world the tapped holes for the feeder locations are in a large boss that is cast into the top/ribs.
I have added feeders to a few tables that had no factory tapped holes and I set the feeder base where I would like it, then made sure it missed the ribs below, drill clearance holes in the top, and then inbound of those smaller clearance holes for machine screws that will hold a 1/2" steel plate pulled up against the underside of the top via the machine screws, then use long 1/2" bolts that pass completely through the top and into the 1/2" steel plate.
Once the plate is fastened and aligned a single time and cinched up with the machine screws (flat head countersunk into the cast iron top) you never touch it again.
I have two Comatic DC40's and two PF31's and I dont know that I would trust any of them in the lightest application tapped into only the top surface of a cast top.
I watched a kid (who was subsequently fired) day dreaming stuck a second board in before the first was through the feeder and the feeder reared up, grabbing both boards, I could see the column and the horizontal column flexing and as I was running full steam could literally see the entire corner of the saw snapping off in my mind, and barely made it to the e-stop on the saw and jerked the feeder cord out of the wall, immediately releasing the vertical column lock and raising the feeder.
Mind blown the table didnt snap even with the steel plate below or the ears didnt brake off the feeder column base.
There is a lot of leverage there.
Thank you all for responding.
Karl- the shop I work in occasionally has their feeder mounted on the indeed side of the shaper, and while it works it is a bit of a nuisance, at least in the space of this particular shop, but this may be the way to go.
I'm going to think upon this for awhile yet.
Thanks guys, I do appreciate the years of experience on this site, very knowledgable and accurate information... again thanks!
Do the two feeders have different bolt patterns and you are worried about too many hole cracking the table?
It's really hard to say without some details like where it is going to be mounted, table size/dimensions, thickness legs.