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Bonding Sheet Metal to Baltic Birch6/17
I've got to laminate 24 gauge sheet steel to baltic birch for a pair of Thermador refrigerator panels. Customer wants magnetic and blackboard. A buddy will cut the panels to size (including ice maker cutout) on a water jet. Testing with a few 12 x 12 pieces, to see what will hold up - especially with the water jet. So here's what I'm going to test:
- Titebond II (Amazingly, this is what Franklin suggested)
- Wilsonart red contact adhesive
- Polyurethane (Gorilla) glue
Obviously, I need it to bond perfectly and flat, as in the attached pic from a Chipotle table.
Anyone got another product I should test? I'm iffy on epoxy for this application. I have access to a 5 x 9, 20 ton press.
Thanks in advance.
Out of the glues that you have listed there the polyurethane glue would likely be the best.
I was hoping you'd see this Leo. I am in school at night in addition to working my usual 60, so I lurk more than I participate, but I always appreciate your perspective. Testing starts tomorrow.
Thanks very much.
The Gorilla Glue will likely work best, even better if you scuff the metal with 40 grit sandpaper to give it some tooth. We've done this with aluminum panels and it works great.
Hey Craig Thanks for the response!
Ive done some testing, and have found Gorilla brand glue excellent. Interestingly - the Franklin guy was right - Titebond works, as well.
Testing ends tomorrow, and I'll post results later.
Question: I have found that I really need to clamp (press) the steel so that it lays perfectly flat on the substrate. Pressing won't work with epoxy (although one guy suggested using nylon screen material to keep the steel x-mils off the plywood a bit). Do you press your Gorilla glue projects?
Thanks again for the input, Craig.
Karl, yes I press all my Gorilla glue projects and my epoxy ones as well. You can turn down the pressure on your vacuum pump for the epoxy gluings (you might need to modify your pump and put in a valve between the bag and the pump to bleed off pressure).
You do want to make sure whatever your pressing the metal onto is smooth as well as the platen in the press (no stray bits of dried glue, etc) or they'll damage the metal and you'll be doing it over. You could use just a sheet of 1/4" mdf against the metal to be sure though.
So testing is done. I've bonded the steel to 3/4 D3 Maple (Columbia) with Titebond II, Loctite Polyurethane, Gorilla, and Wilsonart (Red) contact cement. Over 4 days, I've rotated them from freezer to hot sun several times. No delam on any of them. I'm taking them to the water jet tomorrow, and see if the centers of these 12x12 panels are stuck as fast as the edges.
I'm pretty sure I'm going with Gorilla glue - mostly because I need to use a product I can press hard. We'll see.
Thanks again for the input, Craig.
So I've been contacted to post results. Here they are:
I had said that I was going to use a friends 40 ton press instead of a vac-bag, because I was concerned about little kinks in the steel not lying down properly. Little did I know....
I stacked my steel and plywood sheets in the truck, finding they were too long for the bed. No biggie, I thought, just going down the road. When I got to my buddies shop, the bed was empty. I frantically backtracked - no steel, no plywood. Then I noticed a group of framers who were working near my shop, and lo and behold was my pile, which they had rescued from the road after it slid out. It was dented a bit from having been run over once or twice, but I didn't have time to run and get another sheet.
So I really need a bunch of pressure on it, to iron everything out. Ha!!
Anyway, so I ended up using Gorilla glue, although all the glues performed fine - even Titebond II. I used Gorilla because they were the only manufacturer who told me their product was specifically formulated for dissimilar glue-ups like this.
Rough plywood with 80 grit, steel with 30 grit.
Trowel glue on wood. Trowel made from plastic laminate, notched 1/16 deep on bandsaw.
Mist water on steel.
Sandwich lamination between two sheets of 3/4 particle board (nova ply).
Press overnight (I'm sorry, I cannot remember what the poundage was set to)
The press flattened all the kinks and dents from my "accident". I was able to bondo a couple of deep scratches since they were at the bottom and wouldn't affect the magnet.
Its been 6 months now. Although I haven't seen it, the customer would surely let me know if there was a problem - and I am scheduled to do their kitchen cabinets some time in the spring.
JUST TO SAY I ENJOYED THE thread - client interested in copper kitchen cabinets so i was looking it up... glad it all worked out ;-)