I am not new to edge banding, but I am new to edgebanders!

After a few near tears moments, a few thrown wrenches and lots of cursing the italians outloud - I have finally mostly dialed in this wild mustang of a machine.

As with my CNC everything will be going along happy clappy most of the time and then in .2 seconds goes to hell.

For starters let me just say ask again for the record - why can't anyone make a decent manual? I mean seriously I end up having to make a comprehensive second manual for just about every machine I purchase. This one takes the cake. It basically says - Insert Tape somewhere, don't forget to add glue sometimes, good luck! (The parts diagram is very solid however, only missing sizes and threads for the parts - but everything else is well documented)

Ok tantrum over.

My Questions -

My machine (SCM K208 E) has a Cut off Saw, Tiltable Edge Bevelers, Glue Scraping Unit, Buffers.

We only use 5/8 and 3/4 Pre-Finished Birch. We are using 7/8 pre-finished edgebanding.

1. We are using the 7/8 banding for both sizes of plywood - is that okay? Sometimes the front edge of the panel gets a bit "torn" on the top corner from the cut off saw - I am wondering if this is because either the blade needs sharpening, or material is too tall without support when the saw comes down to chop it off.

2. Is the scraping unit only for PVC? It has a radius R3 on the "plate" (what I would call the scraper) and the manual only references PVC when speaking about adjustments for this unit. I tried adjusting it as much as I could to get a clean edge but then had the idea to just take them off and low and behold had a much better edge when the unit was omitted. Is this something that I could order a different plate for - or is this only used in PVC edge banding to knock down the corner on it and I should just keep it off?

3. The buffing wheels need to be replaced as they are old. Does anyone have a recommendation on what type to replace them with for our purpose?

4. The buffing wheels can be angled, does anyone have a recommendation on what angle to run them at.

5. The yellowish glue we are using is coming out a dark brown on the gluing unit. The machine suggests 200c - but is our temperature too high and the brown is a sign of that - or - is our unit dirty and needs to be cleaned?

6. What can I expect for the accuracy of an edgebander? Right now, one in every 20 or so pieces has some kind of issue with it - usually its the front edge is a bit torn. I notice that a lot of the newer units have a mill on the front that lets you take the banding off and rerun it - so I am wondering if this is just a common reality of edgebanders along the lines of the occasional small parts moving on my nested router when the spoil board is beat up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

1. I'd suggest not using 7/8 edgebanding on 5/8 material. Try cutting 20' of edgebanding to 3/4 and run it on 5/8 material.

2. Only used for PVC. The 3R denotes 3mm radius. It is designed to scrape 3mm PVC. Don't use your scrapers for wood.

3. I would suggest contacting SCM for replacement parts - partspronto@scmgroup.com

4. Trial and error for the buffing wheels. They are probably oscillating so maybe a15-degree angle depending on how worn they are.

5. I would recommend a good clean and checking the suggested temp via the glue mfr.

6. You should expect high accuracy for an edgebander. It requires a lot of practice and fine adjustments. If the front edge is torn, it could be that your edgebanding is too wide for the material - 7/8" edgebanding on 5/8" material is a problem. Also, check all of your tooling. Dull blades, scrapers, etc. deliver poor results.

Good luck!

20 degree on the edge bevelers

Call parts at scmi with serial number and model for the buffers.

Need to mage sure your blades are sharp and aligned with the tracer or shoe for a good clean flush cut.

Keep the glue low enough to use up what you put in vs always topping off. Glue will go bad sitting in the pot cooking.

Banders are easy.

We use a SCMI, when it runs great im a happy worker, but look out if it acts up. We were getting chips on the front of our material. I came to the conclusion that the feed roller and pressure feed rollers,were adjusted to far towards the outside of machine. They were actually folding the front piece of laminate just enough to give it a hairline split. then which the cut off blade would chip when it came down to cut.

We have set up a few used edgebanders over the years. As the others have said start with all new cutters and buffing wheels. We also had the tech come out for a day and make sure everything was right once it was up and running.

Money well spent

A couple points:

Buffing wheels not needed for prefinished wood edgebanding. It's mostly for PVC. If you're using buffing wheels with prefin wood, what your'e really doing is using the buffing wheels to clean off glue, which is not a good thing. Eventually you'll end up with smears. Turn the buffers OFF and get them out of the way.

You may have a glue scraper. Obviously you don't need your 3mm radius "Profile scraper", that's for PVC/plastic EB only. But it's up to you whether you use a glue scraper with prefin ply and PVC edgeband. I personally would not use it if I'm using prefin wood edgeband, but I could be talked into it. I do not ever use it on raw plywood though.

Glue temp---- you need to stick to the glue temp range given by your glue manufacturer. I've found with all 3 of the edgebanders I've ever touched that winter time = use the upper range of their temp, and summer= use the lower range. Especially with gluepot machines. I've not found cartridge machines (like Holz-Her) to be all that sensitive.

My edgeband pellets sit in a LIDDED plastic rubberbaid garbage can next to the machine. Over the top of that can, on the wall, is a plastic pouch with the glue MSDS and "Information" sheet, so that there is never a question as to what glue I want in that bander, and where to find information on it.